Ceramide Repair Aesthetic Gel
(As an aesthetic gel, this can be used safely and effectively with at home beauty devices that use ultrasound waves.)
This is a potent ceramide serum, developed to restore and maintain the skin lipid barrier’s integrity, whilst delivering optimal hydration. Dehydrated skin is characterised by the barrier’s inability to retain enough water and this is often due to a lack of ceramides as much as it is moisture.
Azelaic acid is paired here with *tetrahydrocurcumin and niacinamide for broad-spectrum anti-inflammatory cover and to neutralise free-radicals, without sensitising skin. These are supported by the phytochemicals in green tea, borage and lemon-balm. Skin should feel thicker and more resilient, with a better ‘cushioning’ effect provided by the hydrators.
Azelaic acid, is a dicarboxylic acid, which is plentiful in healthy skin and plays a role in various biochemical processes. It is know to perform as well as hydroquinone on fading melasma and is commonly used to decrease acne episodes and to improve rosacea. The moisture-balancing properties in certain ceramides may also help acne by regulating oil and sebum.
*Tetrahydrocurcumin (turmeric) has the strongest antioxidant activity of all curcuminoids and it is very useful in countering UVB damage. It delivers broad-spectrum, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.
Ceramides are vital for retaining the skin barrier’s strength and function and make up 50% of the skin’s lipid layer. If skin cells are the bricks, then this lipid layer is the mortar, holding them in place. When this become dry or impaired, the ‘bricks’ may become unstable too. As ceramides in the skin decrease with age, so the skin becomes more susceptible to atopic dermatitis, sun damage, scaly patches (ichthyosis) and increasingly, even drier skin. Restoring ceramides helps regain the moisture balance and slow transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Homeostasis of the skin barrier needs a ratio of: 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol, and 15% free fatty acids. Whilst it’s difficult to add topical cholesterol effectively, phytosterols are plant-derived compounds and have a structure similar to cholesterol and can mimic its functions. We have used green tea, lemon balm and borage, well known for these useful compounds.
There are twelve types of ceramides which do different things. Those most beneficial for skin hydration are:Types: 1, 3 and 6-II (EOS, NP and AP). These three are central to the Ceramide Repair Aesthetic Gel. We use those derived from from rice bran (not from animals or the synthetically made pseudoceramides).
Ceramide 1 (EOS): helps form and maintain the skin barrier’s integrity. It assists in preventing water loss and keeps skin moisturised.
Ceramide 3 (NP): maintains the skin's protective barrier, retains moisture and prevents irritants from penetrating the skin.
Ceramide 6-II (AP): enhances suppleness, and protects the skin from environmental aggressors.
Directions for Use:
This gel-like serum can be applied twice a day and should feel soothing to skin, as it has a light, cool consistency. Use roughly a pea-sized amount for the face and another, similar size for neck and décolletage - a little goes a long way.
If using it with other products, this should be applied during the second step, after cleansing with a hydrosol. It contains moisturising ingredients, so may provide all you need. For particularly dry skin or skin with other damage, this works well under the Vitamin C serum, CoQ-10 and Vitamin A serum and the Rose Absolute Moisturiser.