Sandalwood synthetic may be the answer to hair-loss

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Sandalwood has always been a skin saint, but hair-loss looks set to benefit from a synthetic version – Sandalore.

Recent research has demonstrated an exciting development for anyone suffering hair-loss or those just wanting a thick, glossy mane.
Sandalwood itself has been used for centuries in luxury skin treatments, to improve wound-healing and stimulate keratinocyte proliferation and turn-over and we use it in our perfumes, elixirs and moisturisers. But there is recent published research which suggests that using a synthetic form of Sandalwood – Sandalore, or, a similar synthetic, Brahmanol, benefits hair growth. In recent research, Sandalore was applied to the scalp to prolong the period of growth in the hair root. (Ralf Paus of Florida University with Manchester University 2018) . There may be more synthetics with similar properties, that could also work, but were not in this trial. (The study was partially sponsored by a company who produce Sandalore, although the science appears to be sound). As we wait for the study to be replicated, the study results seem hopeful.

The hair follicles contain receptors in the root sheath and these were activated when Sandalore was applied. Olfactory receptors are not just in the nose, strange as it may seem, they are all over the skin, even in the gut. It is these receptors, (called OR2AT4, for anyone serious about skin research) which bind to Sandalore. The receptors in hair follicles responded when Sandalore was applied by increasing the follicle’s cycle significantly, whilst also inhibiting the regulation of hair loss by about 25%. So shortening the phase in which hair usually sheds and increasing the growing phase. It is not yet clear whether this could re-awaken hair follicles long gone to hair heaven – but we can be sure that this is furiously being tested. So, everything crossed for a future of full-haired heads for everyone who wants one!

 

Skincare Range

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Top 10 Tips to reduce signs of ageing skin

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The Top Ten Ways to Reduce Skin Ageing
Sun
1. Sun Protection:
We hear it everywhere, the sun is bad for skin, but sunshine isn’t the enemy. It often makes people feel well, more energetic, even happier, and it provides vital Vitamin D4. We’re beginning to discover that lack of sunshine in people avoiding any sunshine, is causing problems, not least, deficiency in Vitamin D. Northern Europeans tend to be deficient by mid-winter, but supplements can help. The important rule is to avoid burning; if you have pale skin, you can’t expect your skin to tolerate tropical sunshine. So cover up or stay out of sun strong enough to burn you. If sun-exposed skin begins to show signs of inflammation; turning red, being sore to the touch, feeling stretched, that’s inflammation, which is damage. The more often this happens, the longer it takes the skin to repair and eventually, you’ll run an increasing risk of growing nasties.
Smoking
2. Stop Smoking
Again, no surprise there: this will increase lines and uneven texture, and make skin sallow. It depletes your Vitamin C and A and reduces blood-flow,. Your collagen and elastin production will be impaired and your risk of suffering from squamous cell carcinoma (a common skin cancer) is increased. So do whatever you have to do, to get your through the day, just don’t set fire to anything you’re holding in your mouth!

3. The Demon Drink!
Don’t binge-drink, and try to keep alcohol consumption to a minimum. This is increasingly being shown to cause stress to our body and dehydration to our skin. The older we get, the longer it takes to lose the puffy eyes and dull complexion that follows a night of throwing caution to the wind. If you drink more that two units, make sure you knock back the same in water and avoid dehydration.

4. Moisturise.
Even if you do nothing else, clean you face before bed and apply a good, moisturiser with occlusive properties to prevent Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL). Better still, nourish the skin: add Retinyl palmitate or Retinol, (Vitamin A) where needed, Hyaluronic acid, Vitamin C and antioxidants.Use good quality and fruit and nut oils and butters, for their nice long-chain fatty acids to encourage collagen and elastin and to sooth and plump the skin.

Sleep
5. Sleeeeep!
Skin renews whilst you sleep, so adding nourishing oils and creams at bed time allows them to boost the skin at it’s most active time. Add your body cream after a bath or shower, before the water has time to evaporate and take some of your skin’s moisture with it.

6. Hydrosols:
These are wonderful; distilled hydrosols, that haven’t been diluted or added to, will have about 0.02% of the constituents in Essential Oils, although not all, they actually have some the oils don’t have. These are gentle but work. Pick one for your skin type and use with after or instead of a cleanser – much better for your skin, in your cleanser contains materials that could strip or stress the skin. They work with your treatments and moisturiser and can be fantastic just used alone.

7. Massage:
Facial massage, just two minutes daily can go a long way to smoothing lines and reducing puffiness in the face. Use gentle strokes, massage against the muscle, to ‘un-clump’ the knots and soften lines. Follow the lymph nodes, working the fluid from your forehead, cheeks and chin, out towards the ears and down into the lymph channels.

8. Try to Smile!
Or at least, become aware of when you are scowling and frowning and stop it! These muscles eventually become clumped, developing little bumps, either side of your brow, and a sagging ‘pouch’ either side of the mouth. The skin develops folds here that are hard to undo (see the tips on massage for best remedies), so try to make a happy ‘resting’ face. Even better if you mean it, as recent studies discovered that cells belonging to people with depression aged faster than people who described themselves as happy and optimistic.

9. Be gentle.
Scrubbing or peeling skin can cause irritation and inflammation. It might be useful if you have acne, psoriasis, or scars, for a limited time, to use large amounts of Vitamin A or C, but long-term, too much can increase signs associated with ageing.The skin doesn’t need to be scraped off to get at the new skin underneath, that skin is already there! Your skin will renew itself when it’s ready, just keep it well hydrated and massage in the best products you can find.

10. Treat Yourself
To a really good quality cotton or silk pillow case. Sounds very simple, but your face is on it for 8 hours a night (if you’re already taking care of Number 5). If you’re putting the pressure of your head onto the skin on your face, then keep the material as soft as possible. Fine cotton and silver tend to pull the skin less at night. Rougher materials can leave deeper lines and man-made materials heat up more and cause you to sweat, which can be irritating to the skin. Better still, if you can, sleep on your back, as your face is’t scrunched against anything that will leave lines.
10 Ways To Reduce Ageing Skin

Ballerina Freesia Perfume

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Freesia

From the white, ‘Ballerina’ flower.
Available in Pure Perfume and Eau de Parfum. in 15ml, 30ml & 50ml.

A bright, clean scent, full of freesia white bloom opulence. This scent is long-lasting and holds the green notes right up to the fade. It is a full floral, but not cloying and suits most people.

Freesias traditionally symbolise friendship. The white blossoms are from the “Ballerina” Freesia, the most fragrant and floral of all the colours and the inspiration for the scent.

Samples are available in 3ml spray bottles. These come in a box with three other scents – please state on the contact form that you want a freesia sample. The box costs £4 with free postage to IOM, Channel Island and UK addresses. One box per order.

 

Hyper-Pigmentation

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Hyperpigmentation
Different Types:
(There are a few and none of these are freckles!)
Post Inflammatory Erethemia (PIE) Redness after acne –
This discolouration is not being caused by excess melanin, it is a post-inflammatory condition. The inflammation needs to be soothed, you do not need to apply anything at this time to change the pigment of your skin.
If your skin is naturally dark, or if you have paler skin and exposed the inflamed area to the sun, it is possible to develop PIH (see below). Any damage to the skin can result in more melanin being produced as this is part of the skin’s healing mechanism. So treating the inflammation quickly is very helpful.
Treatment: Hydrosols are very effective especially: Lavender, Rose, Honeysuckle, Rosemary and Bladderwrack seaweed. Alternatively, extracts: Cucumber,, Green tea and Aloe vera or elixirs using essential oils: Lavender, Rose, Honeysuckle, Rosemary Roman Chamomile. For treatment of acne whilst it is still active, see article.
Post inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH)
This can appear as light red right through to dark brown spots and follow an inflammation of the skin. The inflammation will trigger melanocytes to produce excessive melanosomes and this is the colour you see. The worse the inflammation, the more they will produce. People with dark skin will often see a more prominent mark and tend to find them more problematic. Some people find the sun helps skin infections to heal, including acne, but this can add more melanin to the area and make them darker.
Treatment: They will fade in time anyway, so you don’t have to do anything, but this may take many months. Hydroquinone and Glycolic Acid are known to help, but can be rough on sensitive skin. The hydrosols that will help are Lavender, Rose, Roman Chamomile, Cucumber, Bladderwrack and Neroli. A serum, moisturiser or elixir with AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), Vitamin A (Retinol and it’s derivatives), Vitamin C and E will be gentler and can use the synergistic effect of the oils to aid faster healing. Do not put undiluted essential oils on your skin, but mixed with Jojoba or Sweet Almond at the correct dilution (Robert Tisserand is an excellent source for doses), Tea-tree, Lavender, Sandalwood, Lemon and Sweet Orange are all oils that have been used to help this. Only use them at night unless you are sure they are free from coumarins and therefore safe in the sun.
Melasma –
This usually looks like splotches in a series of little islands, around the sides of the face, on the forehead, and around the mouth. This is caused by the combination of sun exposure and a surge in hormones chloasma (darkened skin caused by hormonal changes). This is a reason to take particular care with sun protection during pregnancy.
It can also be a symptom of Addison’s disease. Even those diagnosed and taking cortisol replacement can be susceptible to this.
This is difficult to correct entirely. It is stubborn and takes up to 3 months to fade, and then probably only to about 75%. And, it will come back if the skin is exposed to sun again after treatment. So using a high sun protection factor over these areas is essential.
Treatment: It responds well to Retinol (Vitamin A), AHAs; Vit C at between 7 and 17%; Kojic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid (Seaweed hydrosol) and for those who are desperate, Hydroquinone 4% (although we do not use this in any of our products). Hydrosols for this include: Bladderwrack and Rose with Aloe Vera. A good moisturiser including AHAs, Vitamins A, C and E and Kojic acid. Alternatively elixirs with: Argan and Rosehip oils with Lemon, Sandalwood, Frankincense, Helichrysum, Bergamot and Carrot seed Essential Oils. Do make sure that you do no wear anything containing coumarins, especially Bergapten (in Bergamot and others) if you are going into sunlight (coumarins can cause very nasty burns with very little sun). This includes most citrus oils, sandalwood and a few others. To be sure, only use these oils at night, unless you are sure that they are distilled and not cold-pressed, or have had the coumarins removed (in which case, the bottle will be marked FCF).

Sun spots –
These tend to be lone-spots or in small, localised areas. These are simply little clumps of melanin from the sun, we pretty much all get them as we age! If you treat them as soon as they appear, you can get rid of them pretty well. The longer they’ve been there, the darker they become and the longer they will take to go and can take 3 months to fade. After treatment, again, you must cover that area when in the sun. These respond well to the same treatment as Melasma, but have been shown to respond to AHAs at 10%

Moles:
These don’t need anything too exotic to shrink them, mixing 10ml castor or jojoba oil with 2ml baking soda and 6 drops of Frankincense oil, 2 drops of Lemon oil (see above regarding coumarins). Leave this on the area overnight and repeat three times a week. Stop immediately in the area becomes inflamed and treat for two weeks, stop for a week and only repeat if the mole is not irritated or inflamed. You can repeat the process for two months.
Gerenrally lighting Jojoba, Argan and Rosehip, Apricot fixed oils, Lemon, Frankincense, Bergamot; Carrot seed; Sandalwood Essential oils. Kojic acid at 3%; Licorice; Alpha arbitin, Hyaluronic acid and Glycolic acid can all help as can AHAs used at 5% Licorice root – brightens and lightens.
When in doubt, be gentle! Skin can become irritated quite easily and tends to respond better to a slower, gentler process.